In part 1 we reviewed some of the more important terms you should be aware of before purchasing your home audio system. In part 2 we covered some of the more important aspects to consider including listening preference, decor, and room acoustics. Now, step 3of our home audio guide is to familiarize yourself with the type of speakers available so you can make an informed decision based on your listening habits and preferences. Below this post I have embedded the Home Theater Speaker Guide from Dolby that will assist with speaker placement. Simply choose the distance and configuration (2.1, 5.1, or 7.1) and the guide will assist you with where to put your speakers for the best surround sound.

On to those speakers!

Speakers are sold as pairs for traditional stereo setups, and singly or in sets of three to eight for equipping a home theater. In order to keep a system balanced, buy the front left and right speakers in pairs rather than individually. The center-channel speaker should be acoustically matched to the front speakers. Rear speakers should also sound similar to front speakers. Each type of speaker serves a different purpose. The front speakers are used for stereo music playback; in a home-theater setup, they provide front left and right sounds. A center-channel speaker delivers dialog and is usually placed atop or beneath the TV in a home theater. Rear speakers, sometimes called surround speakers, deliver rear ambient effects such as crowd noise or special effects. A bass unit- known as a subwoofer -reproduces the lowest tones, such as bass instruments and action-movie explosions.

Bookshelf speakers:
These are among the smaller speakers, but the largest of them can be 20 or so inches tall, too big for some shelves, despite their name. A pair can serve as the sole speakers in a stereo system or as the front or rear duo in a home theater. Small speakers like these have become better at handling bass without buzzing or distortion and are likely to satisfy many listeners. Any bass-handling limitations would be less of a concern in a multi-speaker system that uses a subwoofer to reproduce deep bass.

Floor-standing speakers:
Typically about 3 to 4 feet tall, these large speakers can also serve as the sole speakers in a stereo system or as the front pair in a home-theater system. Their big cabinets have the potential to do more justice to deep bass than smaller speakers–and some may contain built-in powered subwoofers–but they take up more space and might not be the best choice for aesthetic reasons.

Center-channel speaker:
In a multichannel setup, the center-channel speaker is typically placed above or beneath the TV, as its job is to anchor sound to the onscreen action. Because it primarily handles dialog, its frequency range doesn’t have to be as full as that of the front pair, but its sound should be similar, so that all three blend well. Many center-channel speakers are wider than they are tall.

Rear-surround speakers:
Rear speakers in a multichannel setup carry ambient sounds, such as crowd noise, and directional effects, such as a car racing by or a plane flying past. Multichannel formats such as Dolby Digital, Digital Theater System (DTS), and the high-resolution lossless Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master soundtracks found on many Blu-ray movies make fuller use of these speakers than earlier formats, so many models now have a wider frequency response. Rear speakers tend to be small and light (often 5 to 10 inches high and 3 to 6 pounds), so they can be wall-mounted or placed on a shelf.

Three-piece sets:
Meant as a standalone system or for use with other speakers, these so-called 2.1-channel sets combine two bookshelf or small satellite speakers for midrange and higher tones with a subwoofer for bass. Some may include a center-channel speaker rather than a subwoofer.

Six-to-eight-piece sets:
An easy route to a full surround-sound system, these matched sets typically have small bookshelf or satellite speakers for front and rear pairs (though some sets have floor-standing speakers for the front), a center-channel speaker, and a subwoofer. Six- or eight-piece sets take the guesswork out of matching speakers. They differ from a home-theater system in that you have to add a receiver.

Subwoofers:
More correctly called bass units, they reproduce all the bass or low frequencies. In a stereo or multichannel setup, the bass unit might sit apart from the other speakers, in a location that delivers the most consistent bass or that’s more convenient–even hidden out of sight. But you can’t just stick a subwoofer anywhere. If you put one in a corner, for example, the unit might overemphasize some notes and make your system sound boomy. Most subwoofers are “active” or “powered,” meaning that they have built-in amplification. Some are now wireless, so you don’t have to run a cable to a receiver.

Sound bars:
Sound bars contain the left and right front speakers, and sometimes a center speaker, in one enclosure. Many are self-powered–meaning they have built-in amplification–and connect directly to a TV, cable/satellite box, or DVD player, so a receiver/amplifier isn’t needed. Some come with a separate subwoofer, often wireless, and a few incorporate either a Blu-ray or standard DVD player. A few models include rear surround speakers that can connect to a wireless subwoofer or amplifier.

How to choose:
Consider size. Speakers come in all shapes and sizes, so see how they’ll fit in your room. Floor standing speakers might overwhelm smaller spaces. Bookshelf speakers are often a better fit, though some are quite large. Make sure the model you choose will fit the shelf or niche you’ve earmarked for it. Most can also be placed on stands. And don’t worry that you’re giving up quality for compactness. Many small speakers do a fine job, especially in the relatively modest environs of typical rooms. For maximum space saving, consider one of the new flat speaker systems designed to complement flat-panel TVs. They can be wall-mounted or placed on a stand. In-wall models have gotten better, and can virtually disappear in a room.

Speaker placement options:
Now we’re back to thinking about where you can put speakers in an effort to determine how many of them can be reasonably incorporated into your system. For instance, if your couch or chairs are up against a wall, there’s no point in attempting to cram in a 7.1 system. You will have enough challenges placing your surround speakers in a good spot, never mind worrying about the back surrounds, which need at least 3 or 4 feet of distance away from where you sit to be effective. Plan on a 5.1 system and sort out where you can put those surround speakers to get the best effect. Don’t forget the décor consideration here either. On the other hand, if there is no wall behind you or to the sides (or they are really far away) you may have challenges finding any place to put surround speakers. In-ceiling speakers used as surrounds can make an elegant solution, provided that is an option in your home. Sure, there are a lot of factors to consider and these are just a few of the possible scenarios.

With a good idea of how many and what type of speakers you need, it’s time to start putting it all together and do some shopping!

The post How to Buy Speakers: A Beginners Guide to Home Audio Part 3 appeared first on AV Automation.

Welcome to part 2 of our “How to Buy Speakers: A Beginners Guide to Home Audio”.

In part 1 we reviewed some of the more important terms you should be aware of before purchasing your home audio system. Now that we’ve explored the technical jargon, it’s time to determine what you want your speakers for. Okay, that sounds like you have no idea what speakers are for – but give me a few moments and it will make more sense!

Most of us think the bigger the speaker, the better the sound – that, however, simply is not true. You do not need a 3 foot tall set of speakers to get optimal sound. If you are the flashy type and want the biggest, baddest speakers money can buy I’m sure you will not be disappointed by the sound quality – then again, take those same speakers and put them in a very small room and you will find yourself drowning in bass and listening to “muddy” sound.

So, step 2 is figuring out what you want your speakers for.

Take a moment to think about what your listening habits are. If you primarily listen to music, one pair of speakers may be exactly what you need to enjoy your music with occasional TV and movies as well. If you are a passive music listener and don’t see yourself sitting down to appreciate the sound for extended periods of time, then a pair of quality bookshelf speakers or in-wall speakers may be the ticket. Want more bass? A small sub-woofer can deliver the extra low end you are looking for.

If you are more of an active listener, or simply want the option of having your hair blown back on a whim (or blowing your friends away with teeth rattling sound), a pair of monitors or floor-standing speakers may be in order. A small floor-standing speaker with multiple drivers can deliver a really full-sounding, highly satisfying music experience without taking up much space. If you are just looking to beef up the sound of your TV for general TV and movie watching and perhaps occasional music listening, a sound bar or sound bar and sub-woofer combination may be a great choice.

If you are the theater going type and you want your home movie experience to, well, “take you out to the movies”, surround sound is a must. Surround sound audio is, simply put, sound that completely surrounds you. It means a speaker in virtually every corner of the room, projecting high-quality digital sound at you from all angles just as though you were in a theater.

If you know what you want your speakers for, then you’re halfway there! Now you just need to refine your speaker search by considering where you want them. This is very important. Remember what I said earlier about the biggest, baddest speakers in a small room? If you’re going to invest in a good home audio system, you certainly don’t want “muddy” sound! That totally defeats the purpose of a sound system and would leave you feeling as if your investment was a waste of time and money. Speakers are a critical component of any home-entertainment system, and their sound quality can make or break your listening experience. An important part of the process for your speaker search is to consider the space you will place them in as this can greatly impact sound quality.

Let’s take a look at the most important factors:

1. Room size and space: Large, open rooms will make small speakers sound flat and localized just as large speakers in a small room will make your speakers sound “muddy”. Room characteristics play a large part in the quality of sound you get. By placing larger speakers in a larger, more open space you keep the sound seamless and more immersive. By placing small speakers in a small room with a closer space you get a more crisp, clear sound. The best way to remember is to think small rooms = smallish speakers and larger rooms = larger speakers. There is more to that but we will cover it in more depth in part 3.

2. Walls and floors: Have you ever walked into a big house with open rooms, hard floors, and little furniture? I’m sure you have at some point. Do you remember what it was like (besides that creepy haunted feeling)? When I was a kid the best part about a house like that was the echo. It was always amazing to say hello and hear it continue on, and on, and on. Of course, I thought it was magic for years. Then I grew up and learned the echo was caused by the sound of my voice reflecting from the smooth surfaces. There was nothing to buffer the sound, to calm it or soften it so it distorted and acted like a super ball bouncing here and there. While it’s great fun for kids, open spaces like that are your speakers enemy. If you hear a lot of echo in any space, consider putting your system in another room or taking steps to calm down that echo. Furniture, drapes, carpet, plants…anything that helps break up long, hard, flat surfaces will help whatever speaker you get sound its best.

3. Furniture: Many of us have entertainment centers where we keep our TV, DVD/Blue ray player, game systems, etc. Many entertainment systems come with doors that we can hide all the electronics and wires behind. Generally, we use entertainment stands because we want to keep everything neat and tidy. If your room or space is fairly small, you may want to place your speakers inside the entertainment cabinet. If so, you will want to stay away from large bookshelf or monitor speakers with ports that produce lots of bass. All of that bass will just end up bouncing around in the cabinet and probably produce some unwanted resonances. If you must place speakers inside a cabinet, plan on finding a bookshelf speaker that stops playing bass around 80 Hz or so. While we’re on the topic, the inside of a cabinet is about the worst place you can stick a sub-woofer. Select a spot for your sub or plan on looking for a sub with a shape that will make it easy to tuck away in a hidden spot.

4. Decor: While last, it is by far not the least important aspect of your room. As a matter of fact, it is the room. I know I have spent tons of time and hard earned money to create an atmosphere in my home that helps me relax the moment I walk through the door – and this is carried throughout every room in my home. If my husband were to start plopping large speakers (eh gads!) – or even small speakers for that matter- all over the house that clashed with the atmosphere I had created, I would probably club him with something. Aside from the clubbing, he would have to listen to me complain about how bad the speakers look on a pretty consistent basis or until he got a clue and fixed it. While I can’t speak from actual experience, I’m pretty certain that would ruin his speaker buying experience and earn me a few pleading puppy dog stares. If you or your significant other have spent time and money making the room or space look nice, you should consider looking at speakers that will compliment the space, not clash with it or subtract from the atmosphere you were trying to create. The good news is, there are some flat-out gorgeous speakers with furniture-grade finishes out there that are bound to integrate nicely with your room’s decor.

Now that we have covered some of the more important aspects to consider when purchasing your home audio system, our next part will focus on types of speakers and setting up your system for optimal sound quality. In addition to this guide, I will be adding a few posts on the more technical aspects of speakers and what I like to call “The Audition” phase of your new speaker purchase. Stay tuned for part 3!

The post How to Buy Speakers: A Beginners Guide to Home Audio Part 2 appeared first on AV Automation.

From transistors to the new age wireless music systems, home audio systems have undergone a phenomenal transformation. There are so many choices and price points that getting a home audio system that fits your specific needs can become an arduous undertaking. For the numerous audiophiles out there, picking the best system is an adventure – we know, we do it all day! But not everyone is an audiophile and most of us just want  the process to be easier. With that in mind, we decided a ‘How to Buy Speakers: Beginners Guide to Home Audio’ would help demystify the process!

I was browsing through some of the more recent audio blog posts and saw a statement that “My speakers cost more than my car.” I chuckled a bit at that but I was inclined to believe it because speakers can get pretty pricey. However,  the statement got me thinking about how speakers are an important investment and wondering why more people didn’t treat their speaker investment as seriously as their car purchases.

Think about it – you wouldn’t go out and just point at a car and say, “I’ll take that one!” No way! Every car varies greatly in terms of size, quality, aesthetics, performance and price. Most people will spend weeks (or months) test driving, researching, haggling and, eventually, they’ll purchase a new car. So why is it those same shoppers will walk into an electronics store, listen to a short demonstration and walk out with a cheap home-theater-in-a-box (HTIB) speaker system?

HTIBs used to be the go-to budget option for home audio, but I’m reluctant to recommend an HTIB these days. You get all the downsides of multiple speakers and tangles of wires, yet you often don’t get dramatically better sound than a good sound bar. And unlike AV receivers and speakers, an HTIB typically isn’t upgradable, so you’re stuck with the AV receiver, speakers, and built-in Blu-ray player your HTIB features. While there are some scenarios in which an HTIB is the best option, in most cases you’re better off saving up for a full-size system.

The truth is, the right set of speakers (if properly cared for), will last longer than your car. Empower yourself with knowledge, do some research and spend some time test driving several types of speakers before purchasing anything. Armed with the knowledge contained in this guide, your next speaker purchase can be easy, fun and sonically gratifying!

So,  what comes first? Well, it’s always easier to understand the what and why of something if you can figure out the technical jargon. If I was talking about speakers and suddenly started gabbing about tweeters, some people might  think I had veered so far off subject that I was talking about  the well known “Twitter” social platform. Granted, tweeters were around way before a “tweeter” was a person using Twitter – but if you don’t know that a tweeter is a driver that produces high frequencies (a.k.a treble) in a speaker, what else could you think? And what if I then told you that I think getting a good monitor would totally beef up your bass? Admit it, the first thing that jumps to mind is the screen you’re looking at while reading this post!

Therefore, the first step is knowing what the basic terms and definitions are when it comes to home audio.  Our home audio glossary lays down a primer on all the basic speaker terms and definitions you need to get started understanding home audio.

Amplifier: An electrical circuit designed to boost the current or voltage of a signal

Back surrounds: Also referred to as rear surrounds, these are surround speakers that are meant to be placed in the back of a room, facing toward the TV or projection screen. The speakers, work in conjunction with surrounds to provide a realistic sound-field behind the listener.

Bass (low frequencies): Between 0Hz to about 200 Hz it is the low end of the audio frequency

Bookshelf speakers: The next step up in size from satellites. There is some grey area here because some folks call larger satellites “bookshelf speakers” anyway, but for our purposes here, a bookshelf speaker will usually have a driver of 5.25 to 6.5 inches and a tweeter. Depending on how well they are made, bookshelf speakers can produce some bass, but they don’t get down very low in the bass spectrum.

Cabinet: The structure in which a speaker’s driver(s), tweeter(s) and crossover components are housed.

Center channel: In home theater systems, the center channel is responsible for reproducing dialogue and some sound effects. The center channel is meant to be placed just above or below a TV or projection screen to give the impression that the voices are coming from the screen.

Crossover: A network of parts that break up a sound signal into different frequency bands and direct them to the appropriate driver or tweeter for sound production.

Crossover Network (Filter): An electric circuit or network that splits the audio frequencies and distributes them into different bands to be transferred into individual speakers.

Dome Tweeter: Made from metal or silk, they are high frequency speaker driver with dome-shaped diaphragm.

Driver:A driver is the cone or circular portion of a speaker that moves back and forth to produce sound. Sometimes speakers with several drivers will be distinguished as midrange, mid-bass or bass drivers, which describes their role in reproducing some part of the frequency spectrum.

Equalizer: An electronic device that acts as active filters to boost or maintain certain frequencies.

Floor-standing or tower speakers: As the names imply, these types of speakers sit on the floor and are tall enough that a speaker stand isn’t needed to get them to the right height. Floor-standing or tower speakers usually (not always) have multiple drivers and a tweeter. The size of these drivers can vary from 3.5 to 12 inches in diameter and it is not uncommon to mix in several different sizes. The bigger the drivers are, the larger the cabinet is likely to be. Some floor-standing speakers today use multiple, small drivers and are so slim that they take up less space than a bookshelf speaker on a speaker stand.

Frequency: The number of waves passing through a point in one second, they are expressed in hertz (Hz).

Front-height speakers: A relatively new addition to home theater, front-height speakers are usually placed above and between the two main speakers. The idea is to provide a little more height to the sound-field, making the surround sound that much more convincing.

Front-width speakers: Also a new addition to home theater, front-width speakers sit to the left and right of the main speakers and slightly forward. The goal of these speakers is to help bridge the gap between the mains and the surrounds.

High-pass Filter: It refers to an electric circuit which passes high frequencies but blocks low frequencies.

Low-Pass Filter: It refers to an electric circuit to pass only low frequencies and act as high impedance to frequencies out of the filters range.

Mains/Front L/R: Refers to the main two speakers in a system. For music, the main left and right speakers will do most of the work. For home theater, the mains will take care of a lot of sound effects, particularly the sounds of things happening just off-screen.

Monitors: Monitors are like oversized bookshelf speakers. These can have a driver size of 6.5 to 8 inches and, because of larger drivers and larger cabinets, most monitors can produce some pretty significant bass power and get down reasonably low.

Port: A hole that is placed in a speaker’s cabinet in order to enhance its bass response. 

Satellite: A very small speaker made to fit in areas where space is at a premium. Satellite speakers generally have a main driver of 4 inches or less, and a tweeter. Some have drivers so small that a tweeter is not necessary. Because the drivers in satellites are so small, they usually produce little to no bass. Satellites come in all sorts of shapes: cubes, spheres, rectangles…you name it.

Subwoofer: The subwoofer’s job is to produce bass. A subwoofer is usually a 6.5- to 15-inch driver mounted in its own cabinet, no tweeter. Active subwoofers have their own amplification. Passive subwoofers (rare these days) require amplification from another source. Subwoofers can be used to fill in the low frequencies for smaller speakers, or cover the extremely low frequencies in a home theater system.

Surrounds: In home theater systems, the surround speakers are responsible for directional sound effects. The surround speakers are supposed to be placed just to the side and just behind the listening position (i.e. your couch, easy chair or theater seating). Surround speakers can sometimes be smaller than the main speakers in a system.

Tweeter: A very small driver, often 1-inch in diameter or less, which produces high frequencies, a.k.a “treble.”

Woofer: a loudspeaker that acts as an electrical converter which has been designed to reproduce low-frequency sounds.

That wraps up part one! I will continue this post next week so check back for the next exciting installment of our guide!

The post How to Buy Speakers: A Beginners Guide to Home Audio Part 1 appeared first on AV Automation.

What is video calibration?

Albert Einstein once said, “You never really understand something until you can explain it to your grandmother.” It is a simple gauge, yet one that can be very humbling when we deal in complex topics. Nowadays, most of us have been introduced to, and/or have some level of understanding of what video calibration is. Still, we might find it a bit challenging to describe what calibration actually means.

In general, video calibration means to measure and adjust precisely against a known standard. The U.S. television system is based on video standards for capturing, broadcasting and reproducing the images you see. Television cameras and post production TV monitors in studios are very carefully calibrated to produce accurate and consistent colors based on these standards. Most consumer TVs have controls (some more advanced than others) that can be adjusted to adhere to these color standards to produce more accurate and detailed images as the director intended. Basically, video calibration adjusts the electronic systems of your video display to produce an accurate picture.  What is an accurate picture?  An accurate picture is one that correctly reproduces what the producer/director intended.  When TV programs are produced, transferred from film, broadcast or cut to DVD, the process is precisely monitored on video displays calibrated to industry standards established by the NTSC (later replaced by the ATSC), ATSC, and SMPTE. Your video display cannot accurately reproduce these images unless it is calibrated to the same industry standards. The Imaging Science Foundation (ISF) is an organization founded in 1994 that is devoted to providing the means for the consumers display to be calibrated to industry standards through a community of certified calibrationists.  Certification is obtained through testing after attendance at an ISF seminar.  The ISF teaches a systems approach that considers all elements of the video system in obtaining the right picture (an accurate picture), the whole picture (maximum resolution, minimum overscan) and nothing but the picture (reduction of video noise and artifacts).

Why do you need video calibration?

The primary objective of video calibration is the accurate reproduction of images, based on established video standards. Rarely does a display device leave the factory with a perfect image setting. Manufacturers typically “torch” the adjustments to make their units look more vivid than real life to “wow” you in the store. This can shorten the life of your investment and cause eyestrain when viewed. Video calibration brings the set up to the industry standard and makes viewing an enjoyable experience. The picture quality of a television is heavily influenced by the viewing environment, particularly as it relates to ambient light levels. Because TV manufacturers have no knowledge of your home viewing environment, they assume the worst and use picture settings that will make the TV look reasonable, regardless of where it ends up. But do you really want to watch a TV that was set up for the “worst case” viewing environment?

Having your TV professionally calibrated will ensure it has been optimized for the best possible picture. This includes, at a minimum; calibrating the grayscale/white balance to bring it as close as possible to the D6500 standard and adjusting contrast, black-level, sharpness, color balance and color decoding correctly for your viewing environment. Additionally, depending on the adjustment controls available, a calibrator will ensure that you are able to enjoy the full resolution your TV is capable of delivering, while minimizing edge enhancement or other types of artifacts that may prevent you from seeing the image as intended.

Benefits of calibration include:

Stunning picture quality - Calibration procedures will bring out the sharpest edges and most accurate color representation on your screen. Your HDTV also features amazing contrast-ratio potential, and calibration will optimize your set to produce the deepest darks and most vivid brights.

Reduced eyestrain - The human eye is designed to absorb the colors, contrasts and brightness levels that occur in the natural world. Therefore, the more lifelike the images on your HDTV, the less work your eyes have to do. Calibration can help ensure the lowest amounts of eyestrain in the space where you watch your HDTV, in all lighting conditions and at all times of the day.

Maximum TV life - When your HDTV is properly calibrated, its individual pixels expend less energy to fill the screen with images. This helps to promote the longest possible functional life of your set. Your HDTV will look better and last longer.

Energy Savings - ISF Calibration has been known to reduce HDTV power consumption by up to 50%, average savings of up to $150 per year.

-ISF

What happens during video calibration?

1. Connect calibration equipment.
2. Take and document pre-calibration measurements.
3. Adjust user menus based on your viewing environment and components (standard and high-definition TV, digital cable, satellite, off-air HDTV, progressive scan DVD, Blu-ray, etc.).
4. Adjust advanced and/or hidden service menus to THX and ISF calibration standards using test equipment and software.
5. Adjust signal path and source equipment as needed.
6. Take and document post-calibration measurements.
7. Verify calibration with known video. (This is the fun part!)
8. Review and explain our calibration results with you.

When we’re done, your HDTV should produce an image that is as close as possible to what would be seen on a professional post-production monitor.

That means your TV should: Show a sharp-focus, full-resolution image Provide full detail in the darkest and brightest parts of the image Maintain accurate color balance at all picture light levels Produce a full range of accurate colors, including flesh tones, grass, sky, and sports jerseys (typically rec. 709) Contain minimal picture artifacts (distortions)

Any TV can benefit from calibration! For the best results, your new TV should have at least 100 hours of use. That gives the electronics a chance to stabilize, so your calibration will hold better. Plus it saves you the hassle and expense of having to do a second calibration if your TV turns out to be defective.

The post Understanding the What and Why of Video Calibration appeared first on AV Automation.

Hurricane Sandy made landfall in southern New Jersey October 29th as a deadly superstorm bringing 90-mph winds and a roiling wall of seawater as it moved inland, causing widespread flooding in the New York metropolitan area. It was 900 miles wide as it approached, with hurricane-force winds extending 175 miles from the epicenter and tropical-force winds extending 520 miles, potentially making it one of the biggest storms to ever hit the East Coast. The hurricane collided with a winter storm and a cold front, making it a hybrid that brought devastating floods and damaging winds to some areas and up to three feet of snow in others. The impact of this storm has left many people without homes, food, water, even the basic necessities that we all take for granted. Let’s all do what we can to help them recover and rebuild!

Apple has added a button to the homepage of its iTunes Store that clicks through to a page where you can use your iTunes account to donate money to “Help Superstorm Sandy survivors.” ALL proceeds paid from the page in your iTunes account will go to help the survivors of hurricane Sandy. The donation page is accessible on both the iOS and desktop versions of the iTunes Store, giving users the opportunity to donate $5, $10, $25, $50, $100, and $200 – all you need to do is click the Donate button under each amount and iTunes will transfer 100% of your donation to the American Red Cross. That’s right – 100%. There will be no 30% cut taken by Apple.

To help victims of Sandy, you can also make donations by visiting the American Red Cross or you can text REDCROSS to 90999 to make a $10 donation. You can also contact FEMA for donation and volunteer information. Samaritan’s Purse has set up a fourth Disaster Relief center in New York and is also taking donations to help the people whose lives have been devastated by this storm. The Salvation Army asks people who want to help those affected by this disaster to visit www.salvationarmyusa.org or call 1-800-SAL-ARMY (1-800-725-2769). Donors may also contribute $10 via their phone bill by text messaging the word STORM to 80888, and confirming the donation with the word, “Yes.” Donations to the United Way Hurricane Sandy Recovery Fund can be made online at uwsandyrecovery.org. A $10 donation can be made by texting the word RECOVERY to 52000. For more information, contact United Way of the River Cities at 304-523-8929.

The AARP has Established a Relief Fund for Victims of Superstorm Sandy. AARP and its members are committed to helping those in need, so to bolster the Foundation’s relief effort AARP and its affiliates will match contributions dollar-for-dollar up to $500,000, assuring up to $1 million in aid.  The matching program will be administered through the AARP Foundation. To donate to the AARP Foundation Disaster Relief Fund, please go to: www.aarp.org/disasterrelief.

Food services are just as important as rebuilding homes and businesses. If you would like to donate food instead of money, there is a Sandy Relief Fund food drive being conducted on Feeding America and Food Bank NYC, ORG. KROGER IS TAKING DONATIONS: Kroger stores in the Mid-Atlantic region will be collecting donations for hurricane victims to give to the American Red Cross. Coin boxes will also be placed at checkout lanes in stores through Nov. 17.

Volunteer services:

• www.nvoad.org (full site)
• www.serve.gov (full site)
• www.citizencorps.gov (full site)
• www.helpindisaster.org (full site)
• www.networkforgood.org (full site)

If you believe that you have been a victim of fraud by a person or organization soliciting relief funds on behalf of hurricane victims, or if you discover fraudulent disaster relief claims submitted by a person or organization, contact the NCDF by phone at 866-720-5721, fax at 225-334-4707 or email at disaster@leo.gov.

The post Superstorm Sandy: Disaster Relief appeared first on AV Automation.

Before you can mount your TV, you need to know what kind of functionality you need. Are you mounting a large TV in a small space and need it flush against the wall? Are you mounting a small tv and want the ability to swivel it in all directions? Large or small, choosing the right mount can enhance your viewing experience. There are four types of TV wall mounts to consider — low-profile, tilting, full-motion, and motorized. All have their advantages and disadvantages. Choosing the right wall mount is not difficult, but it does require that you consider how and where your flat panel will be used. In general, there are 4 criteria for you to consider: Viewing Area, Viewing Height, Viewing Flexibility/Convenience and Room Lighting.

Wall Mount Types:

Low Profile Mounts (also called flat mounts or flush mounts) hold your TV 1 inch from the wall for an ultra discreet look. These mounts are a great choice when positioning a TV very close to the wall.  A low-profile mount is the best option when you have a dedicated viewing area and are eye level to the middle or bottom of your TV when seated on a couch or chair. Low-profile mounts don’t tilt and they cannot move up/down or left/right. This type of mount is great for minimizing space in small rooms or entertainment enclosures. Keep in mind however, in order to access wires and inputs on the TV you may have to remove it from the wall first. If you are constantly plugging and unplugging different devices consider the tilt or full motion mount.

Tilting Mounts – Choose a tilt mount if you would like your TV higher on the wall, or if you would like easier access to the back of your TV. The only significant difference between a tilting wall mount and a low-profile wall mount is that you can adjust the vertical viewing angle when using a tilting wall mount. Basically, the wall mount has a pivot in the middle of the installation bracket — sort of like a seesaw turned on its side. A tilting mount can be positioned to help reflect glare from windows or light sources.  They are recommended for  TV’s that are mounted higher on the wall while the viewing area is at a lower angle.  For example, if a TV is mounted on a high wall above the fireplace, a tilting mount is a good option where the TV can be angled downwards for optimal viewing. This type of mount is ideal for retail stores, boardrooms and the bedroom for an optimal viewing angle while lying down. Different models have varied ranges of motion but the vast majority provide between 15 and 20 degrees of tilt. As a result, changing out cables is easier with a tilting wall mount bracket in comparison to a low-profile wall mount, but the tilt feature is limited. If you need horizontal swivel or tilt then a full-motion wall mount may be a better option.

Full Motion Mounts (also known as articulating mounts or cantilever mounts) extend from the wall, and offer the most flexibility and optimal viewing angle with the ability to extend, retract, tilt and swivel in all directions. They’re perfect for those who require maximum adjustability of their Flat Screen TV. The typical swivel mount allows the TV to be positioned anywhere from 5 to 20 inches from the wall. As the name implies, it can also rotate approximately 60 degrees in either direction. Most swivel mounts also give you the benefit of a tilt mount allowing you between 15 and 20 degrees of tilt. These mounts can be positioned in any room in the house or office. Full motion mounts are recommended when multiple viewing angles are needed or when a room layout does not allow for a traditional mount. While this type of mount offers a wide range of motion, it is usually more complicated to install. Primarily because the mounting bracket has moving pieces. As a result, you will want 2-3 people to help when hanging the TV onto the wall mount bracket.

Motorized Mounts offer the convenience of repositioning your TV from anywhere in the room, allowing you to lift, tilt, pan or swivel your TV by remote control. This is obviously the king of wall mount options and, as such, can cost a lot depending on which brand you choose.

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Consequently, we come across all types of cabling that just doesn’t meet our high standards. Here is an example from the other day. A 4-conductor wire was run from the amplifier to a volume control location. From there, two 2-conductor wires ran to each of the speakers. The original wiring was simply connected by electrical wire nuts.

	We brought the wiring up to AV Automation standards by removing the electrical wire nuts and striping back the wires then twisting them together in what we call an inline connection.

	Once the inline connections were made, we soldered each of the 4 wires being careful not to overheat them.

	Then we used a product called heat shrink to insulate the 4 wires.

	Once this was done, we covered all 4-conductors in one large piece of heat shrink.

This is the way all speaker connections should be made. This is why we warranty all of our cabling for 10 years. Just another way that AV Automation sets the standards in the Austin Audio Video Market.

Content provided by Scott Ross – Lead Field Technician/Programmer

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Home automation uses technology to make your everyday tasks in the home (or office) simpler, safer, or less expensive. Home automation systems can control lights and dimmers, create or enhance home theater and entertainment systems, strengthen home security, automate locks and doors, and increase energy efficiency.

Imagine a home theater that takes care of lights, picture and sound with one touch. A door that can tell you when your teenager gets home. A sprinkler system that knows the weather forecast, and a garage door that remembers to close itself if left open for too long.

An automated home coordinates security, temperatures, lighting, and audio/video automatically for safety, energy savings, and convenience. Automatically dimming lights and changing heating and cooling set points when you are away from home can greatly reduce energy costs. Remote access lets you view security video on a laptop or web-enabled cell phone. Adding home automation can also increase the value of your home.

Aside from value increase, ease of use, cost reduction and ‘WOW’ factor? Glad you asked!

• Convenience:
  Control and automate just about every device and appliance within your home whether you are on location or far away in entirely different country. Home automation works efficiently for you saving money on your utilities and providing overall convenience. Obtain the ability to manage your home lighting from where ever you are in the world. Remotely open a garage door or unlock/lock a specific door within your home all from your fingertips. Operate your home’s heater or air conditioning from the cozy confines of your bed, in your car while driving from work, at an airport or in another country.
• Safety and Security:
  Always on guard and at the ready, home automation provides security, safeguarding your home. From a security camera’s peering eye to a water sensor that will alert you of a possible costly leak, an automated home security system keeps your property under surveillance so you can react at a moment’s notice. Log into your camera and visually see, in real-time, specific areas of your home or business while you are away.
• Fun and Enjoyable:
  Home automation gets you involved. Set your personal preferences and actions, then sit back and enjoy using the latest in home automation technology. Though such technology is quite complex, it remains completely flexible and simple to use making for a fun experience.

Home automation puts you in complete command of virtually any device in your home from the back yard or half-a-world away!

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20% OFF INSTALLATION WITH EQUIPMENT PURCHASE! From now until August 31st, AV Automation will give you 20% off installation with the purchase of any new equipment when you call in and mention our ‘Beat the Heat Promo’! Summer rocks but let’s face it, in Texas those summer days can be unbearable. Why not beat the heat with a new indoor audio video automation system? With a simple touch pad interface you can set a comfortable temperature, drop the shades, dim the lights, and kick back with a big screen TV and surround sound system that can make you part of your favorite movie! *** May not be used in conjunction with other offers or applied to prior labor, installation and/or equipment purchases. Discount is only good with a minimum purchase of $2,000.00. Installation for all new equipment purchased with the Beat the Heat Promo must be completed by December 31st and will be subject to scheduling availability. *** Look What You Can Do! Smart Home Technology Our top of the line Savant Systems allow you to change the temperature, set your alarm, stream your media, control your shades, set your lighting, control your security camera’s, turn on the spa or change your pool settings from any room in your home or even from all the way across the country! We take the true power of home control, pack in conveniance and simplicity then put it all, literally, at the tip of your fingers. See how easy it is to use! Tour the Savant Experience Center with CEO Bob Madonna and see what you can do with smart home technology. Control your home with an iPhone or iPad Savant’s TrueImage™ Control technology provides an innovative interface that allows you to touch actual images of Smart Home or Commercial products to initiate commands. Simply touching the image of the actual light in the room not only turns the light in the room on/off or dim when pressed and held, it also illuminates on the iPad® to confirm the command. Navigating from room to room is easy. By “pinching” the iPad screen, you cause the images of each room to appear collectively. Just tap on the desired room for immediate home automation access! Check it out!

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Signal Repeaters and Boosters

Even the best wireless networks often can’t deliver a consistent signal inside your house. When you’re indoors, even within your carrier’s coverage area, the network’s signal sometimes simply isn’t strong enough to support voice calls or data services. With so many consumers ditching their landlines for cell phones, poor reception at home is no longer acceptable. Signal repeaters – also called boosters – act by amplifying the signal sent by cell phone towers and strengthening your reception. Signal-boosting products generally fall into one of two categories: femtocells or signal repeaters. Both types of equipment can deliver strong signals within buildings, but they work in fundamentally different ways.

Femtocells act as miniature cell phone towers that connect to a home network router and use your wired broadband connection to move voice calls and data services to and from your carrier’s network. They work with specific frequencies, independent of carrier; some support more than one frequency. On the frequencies they support, repeaters improve both voice calls and data speeds. Femtocells don’t rely on the carrier’s towers at all, but because they use technology that can direct data and calls back to the carrier networks over the Internet, most of them are sold by the carriers themselves.

Repeaters and boosters, on the other hand, amplify and rebroadcast cell tower signals. Since they don’t require carrier support, they tend to be manufactured and sold by third parties. Many repeaters have multiple parts, starting with an antenna that you place as close as possible to the strongest cell tower signal–typically, near a window or even outdoors. The antenna transmits signals over a cable connected to an amplifier, which boosts the signal and retransmits it indoors. In some cases, the amplifier and indoor antenna are integrated; in others, the amplifier hooks up to a separate, centrally located indoor antenna in the home or office. The area of coverage depends on the strength of the amplifier and of the signal being amplified.

Signal repeaters or boosters allow you to get the best possible signal. Don’t let dead zones get the best of you. Give us a call. We’ll help you boost the dead zone back to the stone ages. Ok… maybe not the stone ages. But you get the idea.

AVAutomation.com

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